The Art of Produce: Why Aesthetics Matters When Serving Up Fruits and Vegetables

Susan Crowell
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Dining embraces all five senses — the mouth-watering smell of fresh peaches; the sizzle of a fajita in a cast iron skillet; the silkiness of a tablecloth; the visual feast of a beautifully plated entree; or the refreshing taste of a watermelon sorbet.

But beyond art for art’s sake — what some chefs dub “the tweezer mentality” — how do culinary aesthetics impact consumer behavior and the overall dining experience? And how can it spotlight more fresh produce?

EMBRACE THE EXPERIENCE

The experience, or aesthetics, of dining is a complex, multidimensional concept, and food is only one component. But for the fresh produce industry, the food component is its primary focus, and it doesn’t matter if the foodservice is a fine dining establishment, a university campus cafeteria or a chain restaurant.

“It’s our responsibility as chefs and produce professionals to showcase what’s best,” says Jill Overdorf, chef and founder of The Produce Ambassador, Torrance, CA. “What’s in season? What’s a novelty, what’s ‘Oh my God, you have to have this, I’ve never had it before.’ It’s those bites that are memorable.”

“We all remember our first kiss — where it was, and who it was with,” she adds. “Really good aesthetics in dining are like that. You remember the meal because of the energy that went into it.”

Dining out has both a social and an experiential aspect, notes Soojin Lee, a lecturer at the Peter and Stephanie Nolan School of Hotel Administration at Cornell University, who has researched consumer behavior in the restaurant industry.

When diners go out to eat, she explains, they’re not just looking for good food. They want something that’s beautiful, a dish that’s aesthetically pleasing, which also stimulates their emotional aspects, and arouses their curiosity or interest.

“People want to first see the beautiful vision, which affects their cognition, and then, ‘oh, I feel like I want to purchase this product,’ or ‘I want to try this food,’” says Lee.

Your body has a physical, chemical reaction when you see an enticing dish, which increases your craving for that dish, adds Chef Rebecca Peizer, chef/owner of All Things Culinary, Napa, CA. Consumers think “this has to be delicious, because it looks so beautiful.”

“We DO eat with our eyes.”

DINING FOR THE ’GRAM: CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION

There’s also a hedonic culinary component, or desire to seek pleasure, to what diners pursue, says Cornell University’s Lee. In particular, Gen Z, those born between 1997 and 2012, don’t go to a restaurant just to eat or socialize. They also want an aesthetic culinary experience, and to find that beautiful dish.

“They are looking for something that’s Instagrammable,” says Lee, who calls it “conspicuous consumption,” meaning these guests want to show others “this is what I’m having tonight.”

Her current research on fine dining and consumer behavior found consumers with high self-image have a greater tendency to consider food presentation, especially the colors of the dish that they’re eating, and they want to show to other people that it meets their social status.

KEEP IT SIMPLE, IN SEASON AND SEXY

Capitalizing on culinary aesthetics doesn’t have to be over the top, but it does pay to be on-trend or, even better, the trendsetter.

Manfred Lassahn, executive chef at the Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort And Spa, Huntington Beach, CA, uses fashion’s “little black dress” philosophy.

Visually appealing produce can enhance the eating experience, making meals feel more special and enjoyable — and keep guests coming back.
PHOTO COURTESY CHEF MANFRED LASSAHN/HYATT REGENCY HUNTINGTON BEACH RESORT AND SPA

“There will always be a little black dress for a woman to get to go out to a cocktail party,” says Lassahn, who is the International Fresh Produce Association (IFPA) 2024 Produce Excellence in Foodservice Award winner in the hotel and resort category.

“But what does that little black dress look like this year? And it looks different than it did last year.”

That’s why he’s constantly looking for new produce items or techniques to inspire his culinary creativity, but also takes inspiration from the memories of his great-grandmother in Germany preserving her garden’s bounty.

Lassahn calls it “saving summer,” pickling or preserving peaches or strawberries, for example, for use in fall and winter on salads; or flash-freezing September pitted and halved, sugared plums for Christmas sugar plum cobblers.

A changing menu or limited time offer (LTO) gives foodservice greater flexibility to capture in-season freshness and taste, and also tell the story of produce seasonality.

While trends are fluid and ever-changing, Peizer believes growers and chefs drive the bus, not consumers.

“It’s up to us — the chefs, the growers, the people who grow the food and who make the food — to drive that in whatever direction we want,” she says. “The consumer doesn’t know what they want; they just need you to tell them, the power of suggestion.”

GET BACK TO NATURE

For Lassahn, culinary aesthetics is how food is painted or sculpted on the plate, to let the natural beauty of the produce shine rather than manipulating it. For example, taking a raw vegetable, slicing it thinly, then shingling, or sculpting, it on the plate, with a sauce painted next to it.

Successful aesthetics mimic nature, he adds. “Naturally placed food items appear to be healthier.”

There’s science in Mother Nature’s beauty, says Linda Hagen, assistant professor of marketing at the University of Illinois-Chicago, who has studied the connection between food aesthetics, beauty and perceived healthiness.

“A lot of the aesthetic features that are commonly considered beautiful represent natural patterns,” Hagen explains, pointing to symmetry, order, pattern repetition or spirals, among other examples.

“I was curious, when we make things look beautiful by following these natural principles, if people’s gut reaction is, ‘this looks particularly natural, and that probably means it’s healthier,’ because people have a strong belief that natural things in general are healthier, and that is what I found in my research.”

Beware of too much food manipulation, though, as Hagen’s research also found expressive aesthetics that do not evoke naturalness did not produce the “this food is healthy” effect (despite being pretty).

Chef Lassahn agrees. “The was a time when molecular gastronomy was huge, when you turned foie gras into cotton candy — and that’s not what it’s supposed to be.”

“When things are placed in their natural form, it’s just beautiful.”

Chef Peizer says consumers are coming back to this idea of “how does this food traditionally look.”

“As consumers, we’re dialing back these wild and crazy ideas of how aesthetically artistic food needs to be, for it to be delicious.”

Growers and other links in the supply chain should push to get chefs out of the kitchen to reinvigorate culinary creativity and increase awareness of seasonality and production pitfalls that affect supply. Farm tours are just one way owner California-based grower-shipper Babé Farms promote their produce. Pictured are owner Jeff Lundberg with celebrity chef, Joachim Splichal.
PHOTO COURTESY BABE FARMS

Matt Hiltner, marketing manager at grower-shipper Babé Farms, Santa Maria, CA, says consumers often perceive prettier, more aesthetically pleasing food as being healthier and of higher quality.

“‘Eye-appeal’ is ‘buy-appeal’ when it comes to produce,” says Hiltner. “Research and our own observations indicate that visually appealing produce can enhance the eating experience, making meals feel more special and enjoyable.”

THE BACK OF THE HOUSE

Fresh produce growers, distributors and wholesalers play a bigger role in foodservice culinary aesthetics than they may imagine — they have connections, they know what’s in the warehouse and they are in tune with seasonality.

“You ask any farmer and they’ll tell you what’s best on their farm that day, that week, that month,” says Chef Overdorf, “and then that information is translated down the supply chain.

“That’s where our unique industry, based on relationships, is so critical and important — because that’s how we share that knowledge.”

When Lassahn was a chef at the Century Plaza in Los Angeles, he often went to a weekly Santa Monica farmers market, and would meet his produce company representative there.

“She was the one who had the connections with every farm,” he explains, and would direct him to a certain stand to see this apple, or another stand to see what it offered.

“That was where the excitement comes from,” he says. “It’s fun to find new things, to create things for people who’ve never seen them, or tasted them.”

Even a veteran chef like Lassahn finds inspiration from his suppliers, like Babé Farms.

“They just seem to be the innovator,” he says. “They’re always trying to reinvent or come up with the next new thing, which really aligns with what I do and how I think.”

At Babé Farms, Hiltner says the goal is to “‘awaken the appetites of our consumers.” And Babé Farms is one of the best in the industry at transforming their baby and specialty produce into visual feasts in their marketing, newsletters or trade show booths.

“We often showcase the beauty of our produce through high-quality imagery, creative presentations, and bountiful displays at trade shows,” Hiltner explains. “By sharing our produce with customers in these mediums, we capture their attention and imagination, building a stronger connection with our brand.”

At Vesta Foodservice, a Los Angeles, CA-based distributor, culinary aesthetics means “selecting and presenting produce that not only tastes great, but also provides the best value for the customer’s application, which may mean the product has to also be visually stunning,” says Jin Ju Wilder, vice president of marketing and business development.

“By showcasing the visual appeal of produce, we can inspire consumers to appreciate and consume more fresh fruits and vegetables.”

WEAVE A STORY INTO YOUR MENU

Diners at all levels want to know where their food comes from, and foodservice should lean into more menu notes, signage, QR codes or other methods of conveying the food source. It doesn’t seem like an obvious path to culinary aesthetics, but today’s diners are smarter diners and expect that backstory.

“It’s definitely an expectation, it’s not just a desire,” says Chef C. David Wolf, a central Ohio-based certified executive chef, culinary instructor, and former executive chef with the Global Hyatt Hotel Corporation for 23 years. “It’s like if it’s not there, they’re not going to come back.”

“It’s going to make a difference on how we feel, and how we think and how we enjoy the flavor of the food.”

At Cornell University, Lee cites research that found diners seek authenticity, or “real food,” and equate that with higher quality. Those findings indicated that delivering an authentic and unique dining experience was the most important area in which restaurants could improve.

One way to deliver an authentic experience, she adds, is to deliver visually appealing culinary aesthetics to customers, and to stress that ingredients are fresh.

“It’s all about the story,” says Chef Lassahn. “Everything is about a story. Where it comes from, who prepared it, why they did it.”

If the produce industry wants to increase consumption, “my personal belief is to continue to tell the story of how this product came to be,” advises Peizer.

Because the more consumers know, she explains, “they will come to accept deliciousness being associated, not just with perfect shape, perfect balance, perfect color, they will associate deliciousness with the natural product that it is.”

If you lean into telling a local food story, you’re also getting the ripple effect from the Instagram conspicuous consumption diner, says Lee. “I go to this restaurant and, ‘oh, look, I didn’t realize this was locally produced.’”

When the diner posts that photo and related story, it influences their followers who also want to be seen as supporting local food, and it becomes a never-ending story.

B2B STORYTELLING

Aesthetic storytelling doesn’t just happen in the restaurant. Many commodity boards, another link in the produce chain, have a foodservice focus to increase the use of that commodity on menus. The boards often connect chefs with growers to educate both sides, and foster a relationship that yields a bottom line of increased consumption. It’s a B2B type of storytelling that is just as essential as educating customers.

Megan McKenna, senior director of marketing and foodservice with the Winter Springs, FL-based National Watermelon and Promotion Board, says there’s palpable excitement when the board brings foodservice professionals out to a farm. “There is something about chefs connecting to a product from the ground up.”

The simplicity of food’s natural beauty, as in this watermelon chirashi don, draws diners’ attention.
PHOTO COURTESY NATIONAL WATERMELON AND PROMOTION BOARD

“When they can visit the fields, walk on the soil, talk to the farmers, see and taste the hard work that goes into something like a watermelon, it really comes through in the way it is used on their menu,” she adds.

“Where a farmer knows how to grow a great piece of fruit, a chef knows the perfect flavors and textures to make it shine.”

Sarah Grizzle, outside sales rep at Babé Farms, agrees. “Farmers and chefs each specialize in their own craft, but there is great value in coming together to share their stories and understand the origins of their products.”

Vesta Foodservice does a different B2B tour by hosting chefs at its facilities, says Erin Liu, key account manager. “When chefs come to visit us, they don’t realize what a 270-square-foot warehouse looks like, and that we tag and label every single box,” she explains. “It’s really about confidence.”

That extra effort and chef-supplier relationship-building pays dividends, Liu says. “The experienced chefs will lean on you for information.”

If a grower is willing to host a tour, most chefs will make the time to attend, says Peizer, who has been involved on such tours as both a guest and as a chef helping a commodity to promote itself.

“They’re invaluable experiences,” she says. “It stirs excitement, and that excitement needs to be captured in order to tell the story, to showcase the product.”

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